VA-16 between Marion and Tazewell doesn't rely on a single dramatic feature to earn your attention. It earns it gradually, over 32 miles of two-lane pavement that climbs three separate mountain ridges — Big Walker, Brushy, and Clinch — and delivers 438 counted curves and 3,500 feet of elevation change before it's done with you. The road changes character constantly: shaded forest narrows the lane, then the trees open onto an exposed ridgeline, then the descent tightens into a first-gear switchback before fanning back out into a long sweeper. That variety is what keeps riders coming back for a second pass in the opposite direction.
Why It Exists as a Destination
The Back of the Dragon is Virginia's only officially state-designated motorcycle route, a distinction pushed through by Larry Brent Davidson — a retired Army NCO from Tazewell — who approached the county tourism office in 2010 convinced that VA-16 deserved recognition. He was right. The designation brought riders, the riders brought economic life back to Tazewell's Main Street, and the route now draws touring riders from across the country and beyond. The name itself comes from Davidson's observation that the road's elevation humps and curves traced the silhouette of a dragon's back. The road pavement is swept specifically for motorcycle traffic, which matters on a mountain route where gravel and debris are a genuine concern.
Segment Breakdown
The route runs through both Smyth County and Tazewell County, passing alongside Hungry Mother State Park just north of Marion before ascending into the mountains. Named curves on the Back of the Dragon (VA-16) give useful reference points for riders comparing notes: Kudzu Curve earns its name from the vine covering the surrounding hillside; Cliff Hanger and Zero Gravity Curve describe their own geometry; First and Second Dragon Slalom mark the back-and-forth sections; and a series of corners are named after parts of the dragon itself — head, elbow, wing, and knee. These names are posted or widely documented, not invented by marketing.
The descent toward Marion through Clinch Mountain deserves particular attention. Corner visibility narrows quickly in that section, and several tight switchbacks require smooth braking and controlled entry. Gravel washouts occasionally appear near logging pull-offs after heavy rain, especially on the outer edges of curves where mountain runoff crosses the road. Limited guardrails exist along steeper sections near the Clinch Mountain ridgeline.
How to Ride It
This is a road for intermediate and experienced riders. The pace the road actually demands — roughly 34 mph average over 32 miles, per the REVER routing data — is slower than the 55 mph posted limit in many stretches. Some sweepers can comfortably be ridden at the limit; others are signed at 15 or 25 mph and mean it, with blind entries and off-camber exits. Beginners will find the technical sections stressful rather than enjoyable.
Bike type matters less here than on some mountain roads. The mix of tight switchbacks and open sweepers makes it genuinely bagger-friendly — more so than the better-known Tail of the Dragon in Tennessee, which skews toward sport bikes. Touring rigs, adventure bikes, and cruisers all handle it well. Sport bikes are fine too, but the blind curves and occasional road debris make pace management more important than outright cornering ability.
For direction: most riders start in Tazewell, where the Welcome Center at 592 Main Street functions as the actual hub — merchandise, rider photos, food, and a meet-up space before or after the route. Marion works as a southern entry point if you're coming off I-81. If you have daylight, riding it both ways is worth doing; the road reads differently in each direction, with climbs becoming descents and corner approaches reversing.
Watch for wildlife, including deer, bears, and turkeys crossing the road. Commuter and farm traffic also uses VA-16 — it's a real connecting road between two towns, not a closed circuit.
Season and Conditions
VA-16 at this elevation stays open year-round, but winter riding is inadvisable. Ice and snow settle into the shaded switchbacks and don't clear quickly. Spring mornings bring cold air at elevation even when the valley towns feel fine; fall brings peak foliage and noticeably heavier weekend traffic. The best conditions tend to be weekday mornings in late spring or early fall, when the road is quiet and the pavement temperature is stable. Weather shifts fast between ridgelines — check conditions before you head up, and carry a layer.
Fuel, Food, and a Short Detour Worth Taking
Tazewell and Marion both have fuel. If you're building a loop rather than an out-and-back, a short detour off the main route leads to Big Walker Lookout & Country Store on US-52 — a 100-foot observation tower built in 1947 and sitting at 3,405 feet atop Big Walker Mountain. On a clear day the tower's views reach into five states. The Country Store below carries official Back of the Dragon and Claw of the Dragon merchandise along with snacks, making it a natural break point on a wider Southwest Virginia day ride.
For a broader sense of what virginia riding looks like in this corner of Appalachia, the Back of the Dragon connects naturally to the Claw of the Dragon loop and the Mount Rogers Scenic Byway — both of which can extend a weekend trip considerably without backtracking.
Plan Your Ride
Park at the Welcome Center in Tazewell, fill up before you leave town, and give yourself enough time to ride the 32 miles without rushing — the road will slow you down regardless. If you can stay an extra day, ride it again from the Marion end. The elevation, the named curves, and the character shifts between mountain ridges are different enough going south that it's effectively a second road. Check VDOT for any road updates before you go, particularly after heavy rain in spring or fall.